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Tangier felt like I was visiting a great aunt who is comfortable sitting in her rotting furs amidst faded, dusty pictures of bygone days while listening to the construction on a new hotel outside her window.

With the smokey corners, the dusty shops, crumbling buildings, narrow cobbled streets with stones missing like teeth: it is a place that had been forgotten, but Tangier is now getting the attention it needs.
I can’t say that Tangier didn’t have its charm. It totally did, there is beauty to this city that can be mesmerizing, but is then tainted with some fresh bullshit (literally and figuratively) which makes my opinion of this town quite up and down.

The minute we walked into the old medina we got a massively psycho welcome from a crazy dude who wanted to “take us to our hotel” even though we knew where our hotel was thank-you-very-much. He didn’t like that, and took it upon himself to scream it at the top of his lungs. “I WAS ONLY TRYING TO HELP! FUCK YOU!”
I felt like I had walked onto a cliched movie set for New York in the 80s where a taxi almost hits a pedestrian and the guy yells “I’m walkin’ here!” as the Cabbie peels off around a corner into obscurity. I felt like the Cabbie: heavy, weighed down with my bags, and peeling off toward the relative safety of my hotel.
By this point, we were coming to the end of our 6-day visit to Morocco and we had tickets booked for a flight to Madrid. We had thought about taking the ferry into Spain, but the prices were expensive and flying to Madrid was much cheaper.

We budgeted two nights, one full day in Tangier and were staying at the Hotel Mauritania in the old town. Our room sat above a small square that looked out over grimy clothing shops, dim cafes, and a warren of streets leading off into different directions. I wanted to find the romance in this area, but instead checked my sheets and mattress for bed bugs because I felt full of the heebie jeebies.
Why did this town feel so dirty?
Believe me, I’m used to a layer of grime: I grew up in New York City, and if my park bench didn’t have something sticky on it I’d feel like I was too lucky and the karma would right itself by having a pigeon shit on my head.
Maybe it was that Tangier was so foreign? I mean: just across the Mediterranean was Spain and the rest of Europe but, on our side of the sea, we felt as far away as Southern Africa. The cultures are completely different. The language, the dress code, the religions…
Tangier has grand old houses that sit as reminders of a time that was better. And it’s true: a couple decades ago Tangier was a host to thousands of expats who spilled their wealth into this city and created a popular destination for holiday goers and romance-seekers (including, apparently, a “haven for gay westerners“). Although the city is now seeing a boom in tourism and renovation, I still felt like this place has a long way to go to get back to its former glory days.
Looking for Good Food
We scoured the old medina looking for tasty treats to gush over back home.
We ate at Ray Charly, a hole-in-the-wall chicken shack, which had a really good chicken platter. I enjoyed sitting at the bar and watching the grease-spattered chef cook. I was a little turned off when he’d take cash and count change with the gloved hand he had just fished raw chicken out of a canister with. Ew. But, I can’t fault the honesty, I guess?
We decided to try something a little different from another tagine (I was getting pretty sick of them by this point) and went to a Senegalese joint called Chez Amy. This place shares a corner with a sports bar and felt like we walked into a forgotten storage space that someone had turned into a kitchen. The food was good comfort food: heaps of rice and stewed chicken served with a spicy ginger juice that I guzzled.

The meals we’d had were cheap and good, but I was hoping we’d find something truly delicious that was also truly Moroccan! By this point I was feeling like the food people eat in this country consists of couscous and some stewed vegetable all the time. Where was the food that gets raved about? Why was it so hard to find a spot that was simple and damn good?
Then, we finally hit the jackpot: we wandered into a serious food market. I’d never seen anything like this and I was fascinated! Hundreds of chicken carcasses displayed on marble counters; offal laid out in dishes; full goat heads; and the really disgusting– yet totally mesmerizing– fully skinned and bloody cow heads.
Here we could wander unimpeded through the lego blocks of Moroccan cuisine and see them in their raw, honest glory.
As we pushed deeper, we came into the fish market. Here was another massively overwhelming area of haggling, smells, sounds and trying not to slip. I stared, unable to process what exactly I was looking at until I felt Jackson touch my shoulder and point to a massive swordfish lying on the floor. Damn. That’s cool.
We branched out looking for a place to get lunch that wasn’t another disappointingly overpriced lamb tagine and found (wonder of wonder, miracle of miracles!) a totally unmarked, totally unpretentious, Anthony-Bourdain-would-have-been-proud lunch spot.
This place was nestled in a smaller market between a chicken stall and a vegetable stall. As we ate, we could hear them killing the chickens in the next store which is not exactly a Beethoven suite, but, hey: it is what it is.
No one spoke English there but food is an international language and “that smells good” can be understood by everyone in the right context. The chef, a burly, sweaty man with meaty hands, gestured for Jackson to come and look at what was boiling on the stove and point to what we wanted. Jackson got us some fried sardines and HOT DAMN they were the best meal we ate! This place was unmarked, and had no name, but was located here.


We wandered all over the old city
Tangier, like Chefchaouen and Fez, has small streets that lead to different entrances to the medina. Unlike Fez, however, we really weren’t harassed about getting help from street urchins so that was a nice change. I enjoyed wandering around and snapping pictures of the white buildings, islamic patterns, and old stones.

At one point, we emerged onto a wall overlooking the straight of Gibraltar and the ferry port. Across the Mediterranean we could see Spain. I felt such a thrill about going back to Europe. I enjoyed the exotic flavor of Morocco, but overall didn’t feel the romance I had thought I’d feel being there.
We ambled over to the newer, upgraded area by the port. This had been turned into a brand new beach front area with clean, empty sidewalks that had beautiful people out for a jog. It was really windy when we went, but I was impressed by the effort to create a cleaner, more modern vibe to this city. The new area peters out into small, smelly fishing docks and I remembered where we were again.


Everywhere we looked there was new construction and cranes, except in the medina. I want to say that Tangier is going to be completely different in a few years based on what we saw. It feels like the whole world is like that. I was reminded of Colombo’s boom and how Sri Lanka will be unrecognizable in a few years. This makes me excited for those ready to pull themselves out of poverty and live their best life, but also about the coming globalization and modernization that wipes out the charm of a place.
On our last night, we heard a commotion from our hotel room. Looking down at the square, a crowd had gathered around a group of musicians playing rousing African beats on some drums and african stringed instruments. The men drinking mint tea in the cafes had started clapping to the beat as a massive group of people formed, whipping their cameras out to film the music. From our balcony I could look down at the heads of these people all enjoying the show and loved that I wasn’t on street level for this. I clapped along with them and thought about throwing coins from my balcony before realizing that whomever’s head I’d hit would not appreciate the gesture.
The music ended after a couple of songs and the crowd dispersed and I felt a wonderful sense of joy.

Jackson and I retired back into our room and I savored the thrill of listening to that African rhythm. Then, the call to prayer came on and the cracking voice of the imam rang around the street like a radio with a bad frequency. It was the equivalent to eating a good desert and then having a pickle put in your mouth. With the oncoming upgrades, will they give the call to prayers a better loudspeaker? It felt like a good analogy for this city: at times a fantastic place, and at other times, better to skip altogether.
Tangier was a part of our Moroccan itinerary. We were in Morocco for 5 days total.
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Hi Natalie, your brutal honesty is refreshing. I felt like I was with you going through the ups and downs of your travels.
Thank you. I was a little worried I was being too brutal, but I appreciate that you found it refreshing.
It was nice to hear the truth about your trip. All trip re not perfect as all towns are not perfect. I think all call to prayers have crappy mics. We heard them when we were in Mombosa! Good post!
Ha! I heard the call to Prayer in Singapore and thought that was lovely. I would like to go to Turkey and hear it there as well. Thank you for the words!
Awh I love your selfie at the end. You guys look so content and sun kissed. I have never heard of Tangier. I love how bright everything is.
Morocco has a lot to offer the visitor, but I wouldn’t go if you are not an experienced traveler!
I’m glad you gave a real account of your trip, even the not so good stuff. The city did look charming though even though parts may have been run down. I’m not such a fan of the dead animals though even though it was for food. If my meat didn’t come pre-packaged from the grocery store, I’m pretty sure I’d be a vegetarian!
I know what you mean! It was a very strange, visceral experience to see some of the carnage.
Oh my, the street in Tangier looks lovely! And that swordfish on the floor, what a massive creature indeed!
That was strange seeing the swordfish!
Oh wow how beautiful!! Tangier looks amazing and your photos are incredible. What a wonderful place to visit, hopefully one day!
I wouldn’t go if you aren’t an experienced traveler!
I love the way you write. So real, so refreshing! Well, it seems, in the end, you had a lovely time in spite of how old and rusty the city might be. For me when I travel, the people and the food make it or break it for me…great food in Tangier, yes, please! Lovely pictures to go with a beautifully written post!
Thank you so much! I agree: food is life! Food makes or breaks a place, for sure!
I love your photos and the feeling they give! Tangier looks very similar to Greece in some ways. I need to visit for sure!
I’ve never been to Greece, but would like to go someday.
i love the honesty and sincerity in your writing and interesting photos. thank you for sharing your experiences
Thank you. 🙂
What great photos! Love the article! Now I want to add Tangier to my bucket list. lol
Great!
I absolutely enjoyed this post from start to finish. Your photography is stunning and your writing style feels as though we are sharing stories over a glass of wine and a dish of fried sardines. R.I.P. Anthony Bourdain. You are right. He would have loved the hole-in-the-wall place the two of you found. Sigh.
Thank you so much. I really try to make my readers feel like I’m talking to them conversationally!
Love your photos of tangier! looks like a great place! Especially fond of that street photo with the blue accents. Would be a fantastic backdrop for instagram yoga pic! lol!
You’re right! I agree: it would be a great backdrop!
I love the way you write! And I also love your honesty! I actually agree with you that the place is a dirty maybe because most of the structures are already aged. Good thing you found a place to eat! It appears that food was good but I just hope that these were prepared in a clean environment. Great photos!
Thank you! That’s really sweet to read. Thank you for stopping by 🙂
Lots of hidden beauty here! I enjoyed the honesty of this post as well!
Thank you! I tried to be as honest and fair as I could!
I love the architecture of the buildings however i am not to keen on the delicacy of the area. the fish on the floor doesn’t thrill me.
Yeah, the fish on the floor was pretty strange to see…
Tangier looks like such a great place to visit. I’m really loving how they preserved all that architecture. So much history in all those buildings.
There was a lot of old architecture there that was pretty cool to see.
I know that i am a bit weirded by grime but it really is different in a foreign country. They do things so differently so smells and things are just different there. Looks like you found some pretty great food though.
It’s so true!
I agree they look wuite old and dirty, but i think these adds to the unique flavors of Tangier 🙂
You are a true explorer!
Thank you! And I agree: it does add to the experience!
Tangier is such a beautiful place. I would definitely love to visit there at least once in my lifetime. I’m going to add it to my bucket list.
I hope you come prepared for all its eccentricities! Enjoy it!
Please I know morroco might be new and different for travelers to visit but name one city that’s perfect please stop with the assumptions and occasions that morroco is so dirty and bad morroco is a beautiful country with rich history
I visited Tangiers and there is an essential element of the place that you didn’t capture…..Tangiers was in the *International Zone* of Morocco for many years, and because of that, it had very decadent standards because the traditional Moroccan conservative standards were not enforced there…..it made it a magnet for easy going sex with underage youth in the medina’s many brothels, and its where Joe orton used to take his vacations with Kenneth Williams. Did you manage to locate the Villa rented by the Rolling Stones, where Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull used to pass their time getting stoned ? Or the prfume shop with the now faded photo’s of when Brigitte Bardot popped in for some scent…? The whole atmosphere changed when this sort of decadence went out of fashion, and Tangiers became just like the rest of the country, and the city is certainly not a place of easy visrtues any loinger, but there are hints of its once more louche days if you know where to look…..also well worth it, if you happen to be there when its on ( ask the Jews ) is when they have a Jewish Tangiers Open Day, with handy maps, and signs pointing to all the Jewish buildings in the city, and there are loads of them, dozens in fact, and you would never know they even existed if they didn’t have bright signs and arrows pointing them out, but only on Jewish Tangiers Open Days. These are hidden places, Synagogues, Libraries and Yeshiva schools that will astonish you if you are interested because on the surface you wouldn’t even think there was a Jewish Tangiers to discover.